We left Banff on Friday August 15th, returning to the train station to park and return the rental car. It was very convenient having a car and we are considering towing one in the future; although it is an additional complexity to manage. We stopped at Wild Flour bakery again for lunch since it was so good and then headed north up the Icefield Parkway. We had two days to explore before our next reservation in Jasper national park. Our first stop was Peyto lake. It's a steep hike up to the viewing area but a beautiful lake. It was a foggy, rainy day so the light was muted but always worth seeing. We were in the area about 25 years ago and don’t remember the long hike at all. Luckily last time it was a sunny day so we had seen Peyto lake in all its glorious color.
We turned off the icefield parkway and drove east a bit alongside the North Saskatchewan river and stopped at the Wild Horse Creek Rustic Camping area. It had been recommended by a local we spoke to in a Lake Louise coffee shop and turned out to be a great spot. We found a lovely location in the trees overlooking the river and the cats loved the remoteness of the area and exploring the woods.
The following morning the rain had stopped, and John fixed a crack in the windshield we had picked up on the way to Canmore. All the glass repair companies were busy so he had found a do it yourself kit. On the spur of the moment, we booked the last tour of the day at the Columbia icefield, perfect since we were only an hour away. We had planned to just stop there to see the glaciers and spend the night, but we were fascinated with the idea of riding the Ice Explorer buggy up on to Athabasca glacier. The Ice Explorer is a specially built machine with huge low-pressure tires that holds about 50 people, there are only 25 in the world and 23 are on the Columbia icefield. It has a massive amount of torque and can ascend and descend a slope of 35 percent. It was very cool to get up on the actual glacier but walking around on the glacier was pretty tricky. Walking on ice without ice cleats on your shoes has a great potential of a nasty slip and fall, which fortunately we managed to avoid - although it was close a few times! We enjoyed the tour commentary about the area and the impact of climate change, with a much hotter planet causing the glaciers to shrink. It was very clear where the glacier used to extend to, and how much it has retreated.
We spent the night in the RV parking lot which also works as an overnight campground. Not bad for $16 a night. The temperatures were almost freezing with the cold air coming off the glaciers, but the views in the morning were incredible. Well worth getting up at sunrise to view!
Sunday August 16th we had a leisurely 100 mile mile drive to Jasper, stopping numerous times to take photos of the beautiful scenery. There were several great glacier viewpoints, Tangle Creek Water Falls and Honey Moon Lake which is a hidden gem. Zeke particularly enjoyed a long walk through the woods at the lake.
We spent four relaxing days in Jasper at Whistler campground which has 700 sites, but still managed to avoid feeling crowded. After the bustle of the Banff area we enjoyed a slower pace and spent an morning wandering around town getting lunch, a great coffee with a bear image and a quick trip to the barber for John. We also visited Miette hot springs, about an hour east of town and enjoyed a relaxing afternoon in the warm and refreshing cold waters.
Jasper had a devastating wildfire last summer which burned part of the campground, 358 structures in town and around 90,000 acres. It caused an evacuation of all residents, workers, and tourists. There was no loss of life except for the unfortunate death of one firefighter. The cause of the fire was lighting, and it will take many years to recover.
The area is still beautiful and we enjoyed seeing Maligne Lake and Pyramid Lake which were both lovely. We enjoyed a hike through the woods at Maligne lake and were rewarded with a great viewpoint of the lake and mountains.
The cats had a rare moment of sitting together quietly on the picnic table at dusk one evening followed by a wild active time. They both took off in separate directions - Flash trotting along the street with John telling him to slow down, and Zeke hurtling across the street to a clump of trees with Sara in hot pursuit of the end of the 25ft leash. They seem to go from quiet to active in the blink of an eye and we’ve learned they cannot be left unsupervised for more than a few minutes!
The views from the Jasper campground were stunning in every direction and we really enjoyed our time just relaxing after our busy days exploring.
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