We got off the barge in Portland, Maine without incident and after stopping for a propane fill, drove to Freeport to visit the LL Bean flagship store. After a great time browsing, we left quite a bit poorer and drove to stay the night (Friday August 7th) with Peem, John’s niece and Laura’s sister. Peem was recovering from knee surgery so hadn’t been able to come to the family gathering on the island. We were happy to see her and spend time catching up. Very sadly we received the news Al, her dad passed away that afternoon. John shared some great stories of Al and John’s sister Caroline from when they first met. They both created a loving family of four children, eight grandchildren and one great grandchild, what an amazing legacy!
Saturday August 8th, we drove to Bass Harbor, on the Acadia peninsula for two nights. We enjoyed a late afternoon walk to Bass Harbor lighthouse and waited until past sunset to get photos of the lighthouse. It was a magical walk in the dark back to the campground listening to the crickets.
We were ready to head to Canada! After an overnight stop half-way we arrived in Calais, Maine the afternoon of Tuesday August 11th. Right on the Canadian border it was perfect to pick up an antibiotic for John due to a suspected tick bite. Thanks Dr Deb for calling in the prescription as a Lyme disease precaution!
Our first stop was New River Beach Provincial Park in New Brunswick. It was a wonderful massive sandy beach and a sunny afternoon, so we headed to the beach so Sara could swim. To celebrate our first night in Canada we had fish and chips at the Gull and Herring right next to the beach. What a great first day!
We were slowly driving along the Bay of Fundy, an area known for rugged coastlines, massive tides and the Acadian Forest, a highly diverse, critically endangered mixed-wood ecosystem in Canada's Maritime provinces. At most of our campgrounds we saw northern conifers like red spruce blending with southern hardwoods like sugar maple and yellow birch. We planned to spend four days working our way up the coastline, ending at Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park to see the massive rocks which can be explored at low tide.
Since we follow the “no plan plan” and only book sites a few days ahead, we have to take what is available. Most of the time it works out great, and our next stop was one of those gems. We were staying in a new Fundy National Park campground called Lakeview. It was small, the sites were large and private, and Wolfe Lake was stunning. Sara enjoyed an afternoon swim and paddle board and we both enjoyed views of the lake and the amazing reflections in the water.
We explored a little on the way to the next campground, only 25 miles away, and deeply regretted taking a narrow twisty road. It’s hard to drive the van on these roads and Zeke and Flash have a tendency to get car sick if there is too much bouncing around.
Friday was our day to visit Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park where you can see massive rocks in the ocean at high tide and also walk around them on the ocean floor at low tide. That day high tide was around 2pm and low tide around 8pm. We arrived in the afternoon and took a golf cart to the viewing area; best use of $4 per person ever vs the 45 minute walk each way carrying cameras! The Bay of Fundy has one of the highest tides in the world, with 160 billion tons of water moving in and out of the bay every 25 hours. This is about one year and nine months of water from Niagara Falls! The tide changes by about 46 feet vertically and two football fields horizontally and due to the massive drop the ocean floor is exposed at low tide.
After exploring the views at high tide we returned to the RV for the rainy afternoon. Luckily by 6pm the rain stopped and we could return to the viewing area and walk down to explore the ocean floor! It was a lovely evening, and we enjoyed walking around the base of the rocks and the views from the ocean floor. The park guides were very friendly and informative, and we learned the high tides are caused by the shape of the bay, which is deep and wide at one end and narrow and shallow at the other end. It was a memorable day and we were glad we had seen both high and low tides.
Our campsite that night was at a horse ranch which had a small campground and excellent facilities. Sara found this location via iOverlander, a site that is very useful for finding free boondocking locations and more unusual camping sites. It was a wonderful location, close to Hopewell rocks, peaceful and even better had horses! In the morning Sara walked to the stables area and was early enough to see the 20+ horses being brought in from the field. She enjoyed chatting to the owner, whose family had owned the ranch since the 1950’s and eventually turned it into a riding and lodging facility. It all started because one of the son’s had polio and started riding as therapy to recover.
It was a wonderful end to our time in New Brunswick. Time to move to Nova Scotia and connect with John’s eldest son John who was visiting a friend.
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