Adventures in Viet Nam

Adventures in Viet Nam

We flew from Laung Prabang, Laos to Hanoi, Viet Nam on January 3rd. The good news is that John did not have any flashbacks from his 1969 experience. The bad news is that it was cold, grey, and overcast the whole time we were there. We visited the city of Hanoi, went north a stone’s throw from the Chinese border, and east of Hanoi to Ha Long Bay.

When we got to Hanoi we checked in to our hotel, Hanoi Elegance Diamond and they upgraded us to an Executive room which was really nice and well worth the extra $20.  As soon as we settled in we decided we should do a little walking tour of the “Old Quarter” which is where our hotel was located. The roads and streets of Hanoi are extremely busy with all kinds of street vendors and there are thousands of motor scooters darting around on the roads. Their roads are complete “jungle rules”, it is every man or woman for themselves. Crossing a road is an adventure in itself. It was kind of funny because you would see lots of foreigners standing on the side of the road with that “what do you think, should we go now” look on their faces. We were standing on the side of the road trying to decide if we should try to cross and a local person came up to us and said “follow me”. So we did and she said “go slow, they will go around you”. So it became sort of a game for us crossing the road and we would high five each other every time we made it across.

The people in Viet Nam are very friendly and the city was interesting.  We were standing taking pictures when a group of young people rushed up to us, and we thought they were about to start some scam.  Instead they started asking us where we were from, and explained they were learning English and wanted to practice.  We had a lovely time talking to them and helping them with their English skills.  They even taught us a few words of Vietnamese.  

  

The next night we took the Orient Express, night train to Lao Cai, which is right next to the Chinese border. Our train arrived about 5:30 in the morning and our guide, Ha was there to meet us. We had breakfast and then our driver, Hi arrived in his Ford SUV. Ha in Vietnamese means the sea and Hi means the river. So we were well covered with the river and the sea; and they were both great. After breakfast we drove several hours to the Can Cau market. This is a market like nothing you have ever seen before. It is out in the boondocks and held out in a field off a dirt road. The draw for us is all the local hill tribe people who come to sell their goods including water buffaloes, birds, and pigs. The main tribe group there was the Flower H’mong. This tribe got its name from the colorful dress and clothes they wear. As a photographer it is a visual feast to see all these people dressed in such colorful and decorative outfits. It was a wonderful experience.

That afternoon we drove back to the little town of Bac Ha. The hotel we stayed in was an interesting experience. I think it was the first hotel Sara and I have ever stayed in where we could see our breath freeze when we exhaled. It was cold!! We had the heater going but it didn’t seem to make a dent in the temperature. Finally, we figured out the window in the bathroom would not close all the way so we closed the door to the bathroom and that helped but we still slept with our warm clothes on and every blanket available. It was like camping in a hotel.

Another interesting thing they do in Viet Nam in every city and town is every morning and evening the government broadcasts the news and some music over a loud PA system. So forget about sleeping when that is going on. Isn’t that nice of the government to provide news and music for the people? Apparently, it is mostly the older people that listen because there is unlimited Internet access for everybody.

On Sunday January 6^th  we got up and went to the Bac Ha market which was in the streets of Bac Ha. It was a lot like the Can Cau market but bigger. They were selling basically everything from finished goods to hacked up animal parts- pretty earthy and gritty.

That afternoon we headed back to Lao Cau to catch the night train back to Hanoi. On the way back, Ha suggested we take a walk through the country side through a small village to a river where we would take a local boat down the river. The walk and boat ride was a real pleasure. It was refreshing to get some exercise and fresh air and see the rural area with rice paddies and farming. That night we boarded the “Orient Express” to head back to Hanoi. The train arrived at about five in the morning. We went back to our hotel and got a shower and prepared for our drive to Ha Long Bay. We took a mini bus to Ha Long Bay which took about three and a half hours. About half way through the drive we stopped for a bathroom break. The place we stopped was a place where disabled people made some fine embroidered artwork. These pieces looked like paintings but were done by hand with silk thread. Of course, I insisted that we buy some.

When we arrived at Ha Long Bay the staff there was very efficient at collecting us up and moving us to our boat which looks like a Chinese Junk. The sails are really only for decoration and they only put them up when we were anchored but we knew that. The bay is quite an extraordinary geological feature. It was really quite beautiful, although photographically it would have been nice if we did not have grey skies. Our first stop was a little island called Titop. We hiked to the top for a view of the surrounding area. Next we went to another area with a cave and did some kayaking. The boat was delightfully luxurious, with wonderfully food and of course massages.  

We had a great time in Viet Nam. I just wished we would have had better weather but on a one month trip you are bound to get some bad weather somewhere.  

Click here for photos of Viet Nam

Chanting Monks in Laos

Chanting Monks in Laos

On January 1st we flew to Luang Prabang in Laos. We again stayed in the old part of town, nestled in the corner between the Mekong and Nam Kang rivers. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and is known for its many Buddhist temples and monasteries. Every morning the local monks walk the streets collecting alms, which provides their food for the day.

We got up before dawn both days to view the alms tradition and to wander the streets before it got busy. The Mekong river is very peaceful that early in the morning. One afternoon we joined the monks for their evening chant, which was a special experience and very relaxing. We recorded their chants, as we sat on the floor behind them. It was interesting talking to one of the monks, who has plans to join a monastery in the capital city and go to University to be an accountant.

We are really glad we visited Luang Prabang, which was highly recommended by our friend Larry Henderson. Apparently the town is similar to how Chiang Mai was 20 years ago, and it is likely the town will be very different in coming years. We had some great food in Laos, and of course a massage. Our plan is to have a massage in every country!

Our two days in Laos were a welcome rest after the busy week in Thailand.

Click here for the Laos Photos

New Years Eve - Elephants and Lanterns

New Years Eve - Elephants and Lanterns

We flew to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand on Dec 30th.  It was a bit quieter than Bangkok, but not much since everyone had traveled to the town for New Years Eve.  We stayed in the center of town, which is full of of small alleys and streets with plenty of guest houses and cafes.  That evening we wandered around town through the night market full of vendors selling everything imaginable to buy or eat.  We of course stopped in to view a few Wat's, one in particular was very ornate, and we stopped to listen to the monks performing their evening prayer chant.  The temple was full of hanging prayer flags put up by people to wish for good luck in the coming year.  Sara hung one and asked for best wishes for humanity, the earth and all the animals.  (So you are all covered for 2013).

The next day (Dec 31st) we visited an elephant rescue park.  It was a wonderful experience allowing us to closely interact with the elephants, including feeding and bathing.  There were some very sad stories about the suffering of the elephants, many who had been abused, and were now blind or injured.  They do now have a wonderful area to roam as they wish, with plenty of food and kind attention.  There were two young couples in our group, and we really enjoyed talking to them and sharing the experience.  A friend from work recommended we visit and I'm very glad we picked this park.  We of course left with several souvenirs, and made a donation to sponsor an elephant for the year!

That evening we learned why so many people go to Chiang Mai for New Years, it is so magical.  The streets were packed full of people and street vendors, including a live band.  The best part is everyone was lighting paper lanterns and releasing them into the sky.  This is a tradition for good luck in the coming year, and an way to release the bad things that happened in the previous year.  We purchased a lantern for 30 baht ($1) and decided to launch our own lantern..... its not as easy as it looks!

John was ready with the camera and Sara started the lighting process aided by a friendly American tourist.  Unfortunately a wind shift caused the flame to catch the lantern on fire, and not wanted to get burned we let go.  The lantern took off and flew into another tourist, sending sparks and flames around his head and shoulders.  Some frantic slapping by Sara averted a nasty disaster, and further stamping extinguished the still burning lantern on the ground.  John was too stunned at the disaster unfolding in front of him that he didn't take any photos!  A little shaken by the experience we were concerned our Karma was damaged for the coming year, however some local folks took pity on us, and helped us light and release another lantern successfully.  Mission accomplished!  It was truly the most memorable New Years Eve we have experienced.

Click here for Chiang Mai Photos

 

All Things Buddha

Happy New Year, Welcome to 2013!

We have had a very hectic first week in Thailand.  We left early Christmas Day, and 14 hours later landed in Tokyo. Thankfully we used miles and were traveling in Business class. After a 4 hour stop we flew to Hong Kong and fell into bed exhausted after 24 hours of travel.

The next day (Dec 27)  we flew to Bangkok and arrived in the late afternoon at Sala Arun, our hotel in a perfect location.  Walking distance to the main temples, and on the river opposite Wat Arun - The Temple of Dawn.  It was dark by this point but we rushed out, excited to start our  exploring.  We stopped to take some night photos of Wat Pho, lit beautifully, with a full moon.  Unfortunately, John in a daze of travel exhaustion had a "trip and fall" and did a face plant onto the side walk with his camera and tripod crashing to the ground.  Fortunately John and the camera equipment were ok, but we both thought the trip could be over before it started!

We woke up at 5am on Friday and decided to take the first ferry boat across the river to Wat  Arun, appropriately named the Temple of Dawn.  It is a beautiful temple, and was very peaceful so early in the morning.  We spent several hours wandering around the grounds and climbing the steps for different views.  We returned to the hotel for breakfast and then headed out to the Grand Palace, only 10 minutes walking distance.  The Palace is exceedingly ornate, and a large complex of many temples.  It was very busy, crowded and hot but we thoroughly enjoyed the visit.

After a busy morning we decided it was time for a massage, so we went to the market and had an hour Thai massage each.  It was an interesting experience, lying on a mat in a row and with lots of vigorous pushing and pulling.  We did feel more relaxed afterwards and ready for our last temple viewing.  Wat Pho was our favorite temple complex, and we spent 3 hours wandering around all the buildings which are magnificent.  It was a perfect end to the day.

Click here to see the photos from Bangkok

On Saturday (29th) we visited the flower market, and then headed to the ancient city of Ayutthaya. Our mode of transportation was a 3rd class commuter train which cost 20 baht each (70 cents).  Needless to say the 1 1/2 hour trip was hot, crowded and loud!  At the final stop a number of dazed tourists disembarked and wandered off in different directions.  We took the ferry to the city center on the island and arranged for a Tuk Tuk driver to drive us around for several hours.  He took us to a local restaurant for lunch, and afterwards said he was having his brother drive us, which was great because Jacob had an air-conditioned car! 

We toured the main temples which were unique and different to Bangkok, similar to what we may see at Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Following a tip from an English family we met on the ferry we decided to take the air conditioned bus back to Bangkok.  At 60 baht each ($3) it was a great decision and only took an hour, although we were deposited at the Bus Terminal with no idea exactly where we were! 

Luckily a taxi was able to take us back to our hotel, in time for a delightful one hour foot and leg massage, a must after hours of walking around.

Click here to see the photos of Ayutthaya

We are currently in Hanoi, after spending a few days in Chiang Mai (northern Thailand) and Luang Prabang (Laos).  Still playing catch-up on pictures and post, more to come soon.

South East Asia 2013

On Christmas Day  we are leaving for our big adventure to South East Asia.  We will be traveling to Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and Myanmar(Burma).  After a year of planning we are finally ready for the trip and are really excited.   We have booked 16 flights, 12 hotels, 2 overnight trains and one cruise, really need a vacation after all that prep work.

Our plan is of course for John to take lots of fabulous photos, and to also experience the Buddhist culture.  In 1995 we were married in Nepal by a Buddhist Llama, and have had a connection to Buddhism ever since. During the trip we will have the opportunity to visit many Buddhist temples, and ancient cities, including Angkor Wat in Cambodia  and Bagan in Burma.  An overnight train trip on the Orient Express to see the northern hill tribes in Vietnam should be a great experience also.

We will be posting and uploading photos when we can, hope you enjoy reading about our travels!

John and Sara Stanford

Final Thoughts on our 2011 Burning Man Experience

For those of you who are not familiar with Burning Man it is a one week adventure in the Black Rock desert of Nevada.  This year was its 25th anniversary and for the first time in the event's history tickets were sold out, somewhere around 53,000.  A month before people show up the Burning Man organization and a huge contingent of volunteers go to the desert and build Black Rock City.  Like any city there are numerous departments like fire, medical, police, etc., with names such as DPW (Department of Public Works), DMV (Department of Mutant Vehicles).   People who attend Burning Man must show up with their own shelter, food, and water.  It is a hot, dry, and dusty environment and a physical and mental challenge to survive.  Burning Man is a commerce free environment- a gifting community.  The only thing you can buy is coffee and ice.  Given the environment preparation is critical. You have to force yourself to drink fluids and electrolytes or you can count on becoming dehydrated.  Consequently, with that much water and electrolytes intake you end up going to the porta-potties at least every hour. It sort of became a joke about how much time you spend at the porta-potties.  The dust is everywhere and unavoidable.  It is very fine like talcum powder.   Baby wipes are essential for removal.

This was our second time to attend Burning Man so the audio-visual shock we encountered when we arrived  was not as extreme as last time.  When you enter the gates you are usually greeted by people dressed up in costumes and clothing that you have never seen in your life.  It is like you are entering some sort of science fiction movie.  So between dealing with the extreme harsh environment and the extreme audio-visual stimuli it takes a couple of days to adjust to your surroundings.  When you first arrive you have to go the area you have decided on to set up your camp.  Last time we came to Burning Man we came in a RV.  This time we built special fabric structures to sleep in and cook in and of course the all important shade structure.  We brought an outdoor shower and evaporation pond to get minimal showers.  Burning Man is a leave no trace event so you cannot dump any water or trash on the playa (desert surface).

At night Burning Man comes alive. There are no street lights or any source of light to illuminate the city so every person and moving vehicle is lit up like a Christmas tree.  Those that are not are referred to as “darkwads” and run the risk of being accidentally run over in the dark.  There are only three ways to get around Burning Man.  You walk, ride a bike, or ride on a Mutant Vehicle.  The Mutant Vehicles are some sort of vehicle that has been highly mutated to resemble another form like an animal, space craft or whatever the person building it can imagine.  Out on the open playa where the Man and the Temple have been erected there are a huge number of individual art structures. All of this art is lit up at night.  It is an unbelievable spectacle out on the playa at night. There is nothing like it in the world.

Most people are in costumes of some sort and clothes are optional at BM so that adds to visual excitement. The men try not to be too obvious about looking at the topless girls and the girls try not to be too obvious about checking out the naked men. There is loud music 24/7. Techno music prevails so if you hope to sleep at night ear plugs are a must.  Saturday night is the night the Man burns.  All 50,000 plus people gather around the Man and an incredible fireworks show starts the burn off.  The energy level is extremely high on burn night.  Sunday night the Temple burns.  It tends to be a more somber event.  Monday is the last day and the mass exodus starts on Sunday and Monday.

Looking back Sara and I realize that Burning Man is not only a test of your ability to deal with a harsh environment but an opportunity to take part in a truly unique fascinating experience like none other in the world.  Both times we have gone have changed our perspective on life.  For one week in the desert there is no Internet, no phones, no TV, no world news and no politics; just the dust, heat, great friends, the biggest party in the world, and memories that will last a lifetime.  Will we go back? Maybe but we have to finish cleaning up all the dust in our stuff first.  

 

Here are a few burner comments and statements we got a kick out of:

 

“I’ve lost my bike and friends but it sure is pretty over there" – From a burner who walked up to us Friday night – he wondered off into the night.

“Forecast- Dusty" - Written on one of the porta-potties.

"Sorry- we're open" - A sign on one of the music theme camps.

“I’m already against the next war"  - A bumper sticker on a burner's car

"Forget the mistake, remember the lesson" - Written on a porta-potty wall.

“John, what time is it?” – Asked by everyone who refused to wear their watches for the event.

“Days since last injury – 0” – Next to the Thunderdome, a large structure similar to Mad Max and the Thunderdome “

Here are two photo albums:

Burning Man 2011 - Playa Life

Burning Man 2011 - Camp Life

Heading Home

Had an epic time at Burning Man!  We've determine the event is a true survival experience combined with an art festival, we are pretty beat up, with minds full of the amazing sights we saw.  Left yesterday and stayed in a hotel last night, can't tell you how good the shower felt, and how well we slept!  The techo music plays 24 hours in Black Rock City, it was so quiet last night for a change!  We are now headed to Moab for a few nights of camping.

Click here for some pictures