Mount Robson and the Thompson Valley

After leaving Jasper we entered the “no plan – plan” phase of the trip. We were driving west, south then east in a large loop of about 600 miles, exploring the North Thompson Valley in BC. The goal was to be back in the mountains of Yoho national park in early September when hopefully things would be quieter and campsites easier to find. 

Our first stop was Mount Robson provincial park, which at 12, 972 feet is the highest peak in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. When we arrived, the top was completely covered with clouds, but in the morning it was clear blue sky. John prefers photos that include clouds however we spoke to a local who said he had only seen the top of Mt. Robson a few times, so we thought it appropriate to show it clear and visible. Friday August 22nd, we drove to the trail head of the mountain and Sara rode her bike up a steep rocky path with steep drop-offs into the fast-flowing river on one side. Not being used to off-road trails she almost turned around a few times; however seeing a family with two young children who had ridden up the night before and camped she was inspired to continue. The view at Kinney Lake was well worth the fear going up and down; an alpine lake surrounded by steep mountains. 

That afternoon we were relieved to get a camping spot at the second campground in the park. Everything was first come first served, and our backup plan was wild camping at a gravel pit up the road. It was still early enough on a Friday afternoon to have spots available, even better they had hot showers!

The next day we drove north to the tiny community of Dunster (population 24). The area had caught Sara’s attention because Google maps showed a place nearby called Croydon and Sara’s Dad was from Croydon which is south London. Dunster has a railway station built in 1913 which is now a restored museum and a cool historic general store. It was a fun afternoon chatting to the locals about the area’s history. Plus the general store had fire starters, Sara’s favorite tea and a post office where we bought some stamps we needed. We decided not to go any further north and turned back south to spend two nights in Valemont since we needed to do such mundane things as grocery shopping and laundry!

The campsite in Valemont was next to the Swift River which was a dedicated salmon spawning habitat. The Chinook salmon swim all the way from Vancouver to lay their eggs. There were a lot of salmon swimming up the river and it was quite moving watching their struggle after a 3-month journey about 850 mile journey.  The water was turbulent and hard to photograph, but John persevered and managed to get a few shots. They were quite big, about two feet long, and we were careful to follow the directions to not disturb them, even a shadow can prevent them from laying the eggs. 

We left Valemont on Monday August 25th and drove south to Clearwater which is the entry point to  Wells Grey Provincial Park which has 42 waterfalls. We were staying at a campground north of the highway to have a quiet night. Most of our campgrounds had been off the highway so had road noise and sometimes train noise. The area is quite wild and all facilities are close to the main road, including the train track which we seemed to have been following since Montana!  The only noise that night was our neighbor having a terrible argument with someone, he did apologize the next day. The campground had some interesting buildings and we thought it had been a military base, turns out it was a minimum security prison some years ago.

On the way out we stopped to see Spahats Fall which is 197 feet tall and enjoyed a pleasant walk through an old growth forest. Then we headed to Kamloops for groceries and pet food. It was a really hot day, almost 100F, and we of course managed to hit town at the hottest part of the day. Kamloops is in a dry hot area and was the largest town we had gone through since leaving Kalispell in Montana. We were able to get everything we needed and then headed to Salmon Arm for the night. We knew the area was hot and were trying to get through to the lower temperatures in the mountains of Revelstoke as quickly as possible. 

We had driven just over 4,000 miles by this point and everyone was settling into van life. We’ve memorized most of the places in the van that cause a nasty head strike if you’re not paying attention, and we have learned to move around each other in the 160 sq feet of interior space. Finding campsites has got easier, aided by Google Maps and iOverlander.com. The cats continue to enjoy getting outside and certainly enjoy the forest sites the most. Best to avoid any area with small children or dogs which particularly scares Zeke. We have tried to walk them together, but they always go in completely opposite directions, even if we are trying for a quick photo!

Click here to see the Photos and Videos